| | | | | | | | | Removing the crank | | | | | |
Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 1:20 am |
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mikkla |
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Joined: 23 Aug 2010 |
Posts: 87 |
Location: The Netherlands |
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Hi all!!
I want to take of the big sprocket at the front drive chain for cleaning and polishing purposes and having doubts on how to remove the crank.
I pressume this requires a special tool.
I saw some crank removal tools, but when I look at them I don't know how it is used haha.
Any suggestions?
Or just go by the bikeshop and ask there?
It is this one :
I have pullers in various forms and shapes, also with two, three or four arms.
Amongst others I have these :
So if this can be used then there is no problem! |
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Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 3:31 am |
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trailrunner |
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Joined: 21 Jul 2010 |
Posts: 20 |
Location: Fort Worth, TX |
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No, you don't use that type of puller. I'm sure Chas will add in with a better explaination than mine. You have a cottered crank. There's a cotter pin that goes sideways through the arm. Remove the small nut, and with a hammer and a block of wood, tap the cotter pin out. Then you should be able to wiggle and loosen the arm and gears with just hand pressure. Once the cotter pin is out, they usually come apart quite easily. |
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_________________ Dave B
Ft Worth, TX |
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Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 3:58 am |
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sandranian |
Site Admin |
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Joined: 27 Feb 2006 |
Posts: 2701 |
Location: Southern California |
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Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 5:12 am |
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scozim |
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Joined: 26 Sep 2008 |
Posts: 629 |
Location: Ellensburg, WA |
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As Sheldon says, though, don't tap the cotter pin. Give it a good hit. I did the soft little tap thing on one the pins on my late 60's Gitane and ended up mushrooming the tip so the nut will not go on. Now I need to get new pins. |
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Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 6:52 am |
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mikkla |
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Joined: 23 Aug 2010 |
Posts: 87 |
Location: The Netherlands |
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All clear thanks for the tips and links.
I have read the basics and know enough now.
I had though of removing the nutt with a press but was afraid the crank was treathed or something.
But now I know for sure it is a cotter pin and the cranks are taperd, great!!!
THANK YOU!!!!
great resource this site |
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Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 11:00 am |
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mikkla |
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Joined: 23 Aug 2010 |
Posts: 87 |
Location: The Netherlands |
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Got'm off thank you!!!
O and they came off in one piece and the nutt is still oke |
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Posted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 11:09 am |
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trailrunner |
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Joined: 21 Jul 2010 |
Posts: 20 |
Location: Fort Worth, TX |
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It's great when the plan works! |
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_________________ Dave B
Ft Worth, TX |
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Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 1:57 am |
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mikkla |
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Joined: 23 Aug 2010 |
Posts: 87 |
Location: The Netherlands |
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trailrunner wrote: |
It's great when the plan works! |
lol, I love it when a plan comes together
Cranks are so rusted that it won't come of.
I am thinking of re-chroming them, I heard it was really expensive when you let it done.
So now I am trying to find out on how to do it myself haha.
Me and my colleague been wanted to do that for such a long time now.
We have some pure chrome, tin, copper and a stable powersupply already.
The acid and other materials can't be a problem.
Now we need to read a good "how to" first!!!
Will keep you updated if we really gonna do it |
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Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 5:06 am |
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sandranian |
Site Admin |
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Joined: 27 Feb 2006 |
Posts: 2701 |
Location: Southern California |
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As i understand it, the truly expensive part for rechroming parts is filling in the 'pitting' that occurred due to rust. If you don't do a good prep. job, it will end up looking like wrinkled tin foil! |
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Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 5:33 am |
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scozim |
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Joined: 26 Sep 2008 |
Posts: 629 |
Location: Ellensburg, WA |
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You can always try some 0000 grade steel wool and (at least here in the states) a light amount of WD-40. Takes a little patience - I think my rings took 45 to 1 hour to do. It doesn't remove the pits as much but definitely gets ride of the rust and shines it up real nicely.
Before:
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Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 8:42 am |
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mikkla |
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Joined: 23 Aug 2010 |
Posts: 87 |
Location: The Netherlands |
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WOW, good tips, definatley worth trying before blowing the place up with chemicals!! lol
Really good result Scozim
I'll try that first, thank you |
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Posted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 9:10 am |
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sandranian |
Site Admin |
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Joined: 27 Feb 2006 |
Posts: 2701 |
Location: Southern California |
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Mikkla:
I purchased an old crankset which I then put on to my circa 1960 Gitane Randonneur. I plan on having it chromed one day, but don't want to spend the $500+ that it will likely cost to have it done right now. I purchased some rust remover and used a bunch of steel wool...then painted it with silver "Rustoleum" paint to preserve it. It looks fine with the patina of the rest of the bike, and stops the rusting process in the mean time. Of course the chrome on my crankset was MUCH worse than yours (completely gone), so I don't think you have to do this, but it is always an option to get the project done in the short term, while preserving your options for the long term!
You can really see the "pitting" caused by the rust. This would have to be filled and filed prior to chroming, adding substantial cost and time to the process:
http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=Pq1V1tP0
Here is a link to see pictures of the rest of the bike, of which I am extremely proud!
http://www.gitaneusa.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1050
Oh..and you can see the replacement tail-light and reflector that I purchased on ebay. This is probably what you want. The coolest part about it is that the reflector is GLASS! |
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| | | | | | | | | Removing the crank | | | | | |
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