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the70sbike

I am unsure if my tape is the "original" or not, but it was on the bike when I got it. I changed the bar end shifters from broken Shimano to functioning SunTour, and rewrapped the same tape. I recall cloth tape, too, from my bike shop days. I like the look of the clear plastic tape, and have purchased a roll of it if I ever need to rewrap the bars in the future.

For the full size pictures, I use the tag on Photobucket that copies the address of the photo with the image tag attached to it:

[ IMG ] image address here [ /IMG ] (remove all spaces)

Hope this helps!

verktyg

That looks like Benotto handlebar tape. You can still find it on eBay plus specialty online shops like Harris Cyclery and The Yellow Jersey usually have it.

The bikes shipped with a plastic bag that contained two rolls of white tape either boxed or loose plus either two rolls of Velox rim tape or a tube of Tubasti and the toeclips, straps and plastic bar end plugs.

We always used rim cement instead of rim tape. The tires were glued on every bike that got assembled so that someone wouldn't take the bike out for a test ride and have a tire come off. We also test rode every bike before it hit the showroom.

There's a really nice early 70s TdF that was just posted on eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1970-Era-Gitane-Professional-Tour-De-France_W0QQitemZ120185879729QQihZ002QQcategoryZ420QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The seller is asking WAYYY too much for it. Rolling Eyes

Chas.

the70sbike

I remember the Tubasti glue. I don't recall any tape, but this was in 1974!

The bar tape on mine is Hunt-Wilde, very similar to what Schwinn used back then. I like the transparency of it-it goes well with the candy apple finish!

That guy on Ebay is a bit optimistic price wise, but it is a very nice TdF!

smilingroadrunner

Tubasti Rim Cement--now that's a memory from the early 70's.

Thanks Chas, I do recall that my '71 white Interclub did originally have the white handlebar tape--which I eventually changed to a light blue cloth tape--now has a thicker padded Bontrager bar tape for comfort. Guess I'll have to see what white looks like---but I do like the effect of the Blue translucent plastic bar wrap on 70sbike.

Maaaybeee ---if it was a Super Corsa and any color other than green---

I agree with Chas, and have to again say that your Blue TdeF really does look great. I went back to read some of your earlier posts. Any possibility of getting additional close up views of this bikes finish and components in the future? The blue '70 TdeF I'm working with looks fairly good in photos, but there has been some obvious Sunlight fading on the top of the frame tubes---just difficult to see this in photos---more obvious in person.

I'm still not quite sure about the photos--your placing your Photos onto the Photobucket web site, and then???

the70sbike

I will take some additional photos.

I am a bit overdue for some cleaning on the TdF, as I do ride it reasonably often. I do have some non-original parts such as the SunTour bar ends and the clincher rims. I built that set of wheels using Mavic clincher rims and correct Campy Tipo hubs. I have the original tubular wheels hanging in my rafters. Other than standard wear items, almost everything else appears to be original equipment. I have been tempted to change the Simplex Criterium, even going so far as to buy a Super LJ, but I like the look of the Criterium and it works well for me. The Brooks was on it when I bought it and looks period correct, though I don't know for sure.

I will be away for a few days and will try and post more pictures after I return.

smilingroadrunner

To all of the forum shop experienced members: Again I have a feeling what my common sense and past experience of maintenance on my bikes would suggest, But---

I transplanted the Stronglight headset pressed in cups from the red '73 TdeF to the blue '70 TdeF. (the original upper race on the '70 had a broken piece of sidewall--discovered by the bloody end of my thumb ---during disassembly) Basically the headset chrome was a lot cleaner on the damaged red TdeF

None of these races had the same number of bearings. One missing as many as 4-5 as I disassembled these two bikes.

So my question is: It would appear to take 26 of the 5/32 bearings to fill the race completely---I would assume I would try that amount and if the fork assembly seemed to bind would probably try 25 instead. The original races from the red TdeF are in better shape than the original ones on the '70 and all of the bearings appear to be ok, however I purchased a supply of new ones from the local shop for this rebuild

Pretty excited about a possible '71, or '72 Red Super Corsa --I've been trying to entice the owner of this bike since the middle of the 1980's. I got a chance to look at it again this past week, he hasn't ridden it for years, but still has a pretty strong attachment. But I made my pitch for giving it a good home--it will probably come my way eventually, I hope sooner than later!!!

C.A.

verktyg

According to Sutherlands handbook, it takes 25 5/32" ball bearings. I like to use a very thick grease in headsets. A headset is a thrust bearing and needs a high pressure lubricant. Really thick wheel bearing grease works fine.

The excess grease can be wiped off after assembly plus it will keep oozing out over time which tends to keep dirt and water out of the bearings.

One recommendation would be to have someone with the proper tool face off the top and bottom of the head tube where the cups fit in (someone with experience). These surfaces are not always true from the factory and if not then when you turn the wheel to one side or the other the bearing will get tighter.

I start with the frame upside down. After cleaning all of the parts in solvent and drying them, I pack the bottom cup with a good amount of grease and then put the balls in counting as I go along. I use loose balls for almost everything. You can get by with one or two less balls but one extra will create fit problems.

I put a little extra grease on top of the balls. After making sure that the inner diameter on the bottom cup is free of excess grease I put he fork in. I don't like to get grease on the fork threads as I've had problems keeping the locknuts tight on lubricated steering tube threads.

Pack the upper threaded bearing race with grease the same thing as with the bottom cup. Put in the balls - you don't need as much grease in the top. Screw the adjustable race onto the steerer and turn the bike over. Install all of the spacers but don't tighten the lock nut. I like to keep it a little loose until I get a stem tightened into the steerer especially with the serrated lock ring on Stronglight P3 and V4 headsets (plus the other French brands that use those toothed rings).

You will usually have to mess around with the adjustment a few times to get it right. The fork should turn smoothly with no play or hard spots. After you get the bike built up, bounce the front wheel a few times to feel if there is any play in the headset. Also apply the front brake and rock the bike back and forth to feel for any play. After a few rides you may have to readjust the heasdset.

That will be $10 please.... Wink

Chas.

smilingroadrunner

Chas, thanks for your sage advice, I don't have $10 but could possibly help you with your Professionel project if you need the Campy Victory Brakeset calipers. I thought possibly I could make use of them on one the these Gitane projects when I purchased them earlier in November---I didn't realize the mounting bolt was too large of diameter to fit the frame and fork.

Looks like a very nice finish on the Campy NR brakeset from E-bay, I had been watching--too close to X-mas for me to bid right now.

Thanks for your tip on the proper # of bearings for the headset.
C.A.

verktyg

C.A.

There's another set of Standard (or Long) Reach Campy Nouvo Record brakes on eBay that I'm bidding on. I didn't think that I was going to get the first set so I bid on the second one.

This weekend I lost a number of auctions for items that I was watching all week. Most of these were to people with "snipe" programs that bid in the last 10 seconds of the auction.

Snipe programs discourage a lot of people from using eBay. It's one thing to loose in a fair and square auction but to loose an item that I was in a bidding war on is discouraging. Recently I lost on a classic bike that I was watching for 7 days by $0.01,. End of rant...

It sounds like the brakes that you have are for recessed mounting. If they look like the ones in the pictures then you can probably convert them to the older nutted style. The brakes in the first photo are the cheaper Gran Sport models but they are almost the same as the original Victory brakes.

Some Campy brakes have a little rubber button in the inside of the arm with the cable adjuster on the front calipers. This was intended to keep the arm from damaging the paint on the downtube. Otherwise the shaft length is the only difference between front and rear calipers. See the bottom picture of the back of the calipers showing the long shaft on the front brake.

If you don't have the button use the front caliper on the rear as is. Get a longer brake caliper shaft for the rear caliper which will become the front one. They show up on eBay regularly. Replace the short shaft on the current rear brake caliper with a longer one and voilà you have some nutted brakes.

You'll need some M6x1.0mm nuts and some of the aluminum spacer to fit the back of the crown and rear brake bridge.

The brakes I got today are going on a an almost mint 1974 Motobecane Le Champion frame that needs the longer reach brakes. The longer reach Campy brakes are getting hard to find. Back in the day short reach Campy brakes were scarce.

I went trough my component collection yesterday and found most of what I need to set up the new Gitane Professional with an almost period correct Victory grupo.

I found an almost new set of Super Record brake calipers that I had. They are the final version and have the script Campagnolo logo like the original Victory calipers. From 5-10 feet very few people will notice the difference.

Chas.