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PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 2:26 pm Reply with quote
vanhelmont
Joined: 11 Dec 2007
Posts: 242
Location: Florida
Good to hear you are feeling better.

Jim said:
Quote:
By all means do not let me cast aspersions on larger frames as a whole! I think something like a loose spoke, out-of-round wheel caused the shimmy.


I'm not casting aspersions either. I'm not throwing out my SC because it's a big frame. (Keeping my post Gitane-related Laughing) I was just wondering or commenting on why we have the frame sizes we do, based on this by Sheldon Brown:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-sizing.html

where he says top tube length is more important than seat tube length.
Hopefully you will find some minor cause for the shimmy and the bike will be fine.

Quote:

Back in the day it was popular to ride a somewhat smaller frame to get the stiffest, lightest steel frame possible. I raced a 56cm Colnago Super that was made with Columbus SL tubing. It was the largest frame size made with SL tubing and was rated for a rider not more than 160 lb. At the time I weighed 157 lb @ 5'11". With full kit this bike weighed 19 lb 12 Oz. It had such cheap tricks as a Cool Gear titanium rail "The Seat" ass hatchet and Dura-Ace EX cassette with 12-tooth top gear straight block, Fiamme Ergal rims, and Suntour Cyclone derailleurs. I even used 42-48 chainrings to reduce weight a few grams. That bike was miserable to ride in a road race but brilliant in a criterium. But this "small frame" conditioning is part of my background, so I have to ask questions.


A large frame SC might also be miserable to ride with the "ass hatchet" instead of a Brooks or Turbomatic. I'm just wondering what, if anything, seat tube length does to make a bike more comfortable.

(I see while I was writing Wisey posted something)
Quote:

My question is related to the position of the rider and in particular where the rider's weight is distributed in the fore-aft plane. I wonder if tall riders on big bikes experience problems when their weight is mostly over the back wheel, thus removing down force from the front which allows the natural forces of the front wheel in motion (as described by many experts) to develop a shimmy. ie These forces happen to EVERY bike, but smaller bikes have steeper seat tubes and shorter riders thus more weight over the front wheel preventing the shimmy from developing in the first place.

Maybe the "thigh on the top tube" trick works because it makes the rider shift his position forward? I seem to recall speculation on that somewhere.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 2:49 pm Reply with quote
Wisey
Joined: 19 May 2009
Posts: 631
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Yes, and the other trick is to transfer your weight off the saddle and onto the pedals. Again, this would shift more weight forward.....

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 3:18 pm Reply with quote
sandranian
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Joined: 27 Feb 2006
Posts: 2701
Location: Southern California
Tall people problems....

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Heightism - what's next Ageism? 
PostPosted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 7:09 pm Reply with quote
verktyg
Joined: 14 Jan 2007
Posts: 2814
Location: SF Bay Area
sandranian wrote:
Tall people problems....

"Don't want no short people 'Round here..."
Randy Newman

Stephan just because you and I have squatty little legs doesn't make a 60cm frame big! Laughing





One of the problems that I've seen in a lot of production bikes is that the builders try to keep the wheelbase the same length for all frame sizes from 50cm to 64cm. This results in odd seat and head tube angles on the smallest and largest frame sizes.

I've asked this question about uniform wheelbases many times and the best answer I got had to do with the frame jig rather than any engineered frame geometry. Maybe the box size???


I have a long torso with a short neck plus I wear glasses. I like to sit in a more upright position and hardly ever ride the drops any more. Additionally I like to be able to see through my glasses not over the tops. That's why I like a short top tube and short stem.


In reference to the late Sheldon Brown's comments, it seems to me that top tube lengths can generally be corrected by different stem lengths... But, it's always seemed to me that long length stems tend to reduce stability because you have more leverage on the bars and a slight twitch of the bars translates into quite a bit of front wheel movement.


One last thing, Balanchine was a ballet maestro who forced his young ballerinas into painful unnatural stances for the sake of art.

The one size fits all view about bike sizing and adjustments falls into the same category. It probably works for Juniors when they just start out racing but by the time a person reaches 21 it's hard to hold those poses! Rolling Eyes

ALL RIGHT EVERYONE, IT'S PLIÉ TIME Twisted Evil

Everyone has a different Fi'zi:k and no one style fits all. Cycling should be comfortable not torture! Wink

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Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 9:52 am Reply with quote
the70sbike
Joined: 10 Apr 2007
Posts: 46
Location: San Diego, CA
Jim, sorry to hear about the accident and hope your recovery goes well.

I just read this topic. I ride 60-62cm frames and have never had a shimmy problem, but I will be a bit more careful about screaming down hills from now on! I have hit 40 mph on Hill Street in San Diego, think I will cool it from now on.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 5:09 pm Reply with quote
overfedlonghairedgnome
Joined: 18 Aug 2007
Posts: 64
Location: Antelope Valley, CA
Hello all and thanks again for all the ideas.

I think I understand how the aft weight distribution may adversely affect the shimmy system, like a bobweight around the steering axis. It makes sense since I got more shimmy after sitting up, even though I was taking weight off the saddle. I will have a nice discussion with my flutter and dynamics engineers at work.

Have a great new year! - Jim

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Happy New Year 
PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 1:18 pm Reply with quote
verktyg
Joined: 14 Jan 2007
Posts: 2814
Location: SF Bay Area
Jim,

Happy New Year and glad to hear that you are doing better. Best wishes for a quick recovery. Wink

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Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 12:45 pm Reply with quote
logarto
Joined: 18 Feb 2008
Posts: 56
I ended up with a mid-grade sport touring Trek in a 61 ish size made from Reynolds 501. I got the frame for free because under its original owner it definitely had the shakes. I had witnessed it myself from a few bike lengths back-this after the original owner had complained to us about it. At the time Trek said that their stuff was "laser aligned;" using crude methods like the "string test" I was able to determine that is was close. Chances are if someone was suing someone and the frame got put on an alignment table it would have been perfect or close to it. It looked just as good as anything I've ever seen with the H tools for dropout alignment.

So I eventually built it up as a fender bike with huge tires, stuck a long mountain bike seatpost in that came up against the butt in the seat tube (and thus was very hard to remove years later when the time came,) and tried to avoid any serious descending in the 12-15 years that it was part of the stable. It never once wobbled for me and I probably never went faster than 35 on it either.

When I went to sell it I finally discovered the cause.

The bottom headset area had been milled just a little bit too wide in the head tube, every alloy hs cup I stuck in there could be easily popped right back out just with thumb pressure. The original owner had been using a Tange Levin or something similar and I believe that the bottom HS cup was pretty much oscillating inside of the head tube on him at a certain speed. Of course we were all using pretty narrow tires back then too.

I was looking to stick a cheap ball bearing headset in there and keep the plastic stronglite delrin that I had been running. I ended up pretty much gluing the stronglite back in there and then taking it out on some really screaming descents to check it, even though the plastic cup fit better than any of the alloy parts did to begin with.

FWIW right after bike computers came out in a very ill-advised experiment I got a Colnago with a 75 head angle up above 62 MILES per hour with just a 53-13 to work with- so it had every reason to be shaking like a leaf. No helmet, on cheap training tubulars too and just above a piece of road where someone dumps a motorcycle and usually dies from it about every 2-3 years because it's a very deceptive progressive radius curve as you enter it in that (downhill naturally) direction.

So I get to spend the rest of my life remembering how profoundly stupid that stunt was- not that the helmet part would have made much of a difference. Nowadays with the bikes I own I start coasting and using my ample torso as an air brake at about 40.

My previously mentioned Trek 720 (the maroon 531ST one with the horse collar seat lugs) had a shaking problem when fully loaded that Bicycling magazine kind of hints at during their review (given the amount of print space that Trek was buying every month back then,) and one other blogger who ended up with a Surley mentions this same phenomonen too, so I'm pretty sure it wasn't just my bike. I sold it last spring and if I were to end up with something like this again it would be the earlier pewter one or else a Specialized Expedition or Miyata 1000.

Oddly enough Bicycling would have had to have loaded up the bike during the test process to even say what they did say about it-unloaded this bike rode like a stretch limo.

Selling it was a conscious decision that I was more likely to tour on 26 inch wheels if it ever happens again at all. The current owner is aware of the potential but he rode it from Santa Cruz to BC last spring with regular front racks and not low riders and didn't have it happen once.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 4:48 am Reply with quote
Christophe
Joined: 06 Nov 2010
Posts: 29
Location: France
Hi ! I'm new to this forum. First of all, I hope Jim as recovered well from his accident last year.

He asked for experiences about shimmy with 70's Gitanes, and here's mine.
I started looking for french vintage bikes as commuting bikes a few years ago. As a Frenchman, I have no problem finding hundreds of them in classified or on ebay.
Two years ago, I bought a 54 cm 70's blue Gitane, with 3 reynolds 531 tubes. No model indication, a sticker on the left base would just say " Racing team ". It has mavic tubular rims with these lovely Normandy hubs, a sugino cranckset and simplex levers, 5 speed.

I assume this is a 74 TDF n° 1835. I picked it for about 40 $, a fair price consedering some paint chips .
I immediately noticed it would be fairly harsh riding, and would turn easily ( too easily ?) which I thought was due to a short fork trail.
In a word, it 's a squirrely bike.
The first time i rode down a light slope it started shimmying seriously, at about 25 km/h. It would also shimmy, at about 20 kmh, when I ride without hands, as I like to do on my way back home after work.
I couldn't even think a racer could have used this bike like that, and thought it had a problem, such as a front chock that would have bent the fork a little, thus reducing the trail.

As I really like the way these little beasts look ( know what I mean ? Italian half-chromed forks and so on ... ) I started to look for another one I'd be more lucky with.
For 30 $ I found what I think is a 76 Interclub in pretty good working and cosmetic condition. The paint quality is far superior to the TDF as well.
Same size and geometry ( didn't check the fork rake and trail though ), same wheels, but nervar crank and huret derailer, and of course no Reynolds and a bit heavier ( didn't wheight it either) ...
Comparing with the TdF, I noticed a smoother ride (with same wheels, same saddle ), and it seemed at first to track better, being more stable.

I went for a test ride on my favorite slope and .... a little shimmy around 35 km/h. Way less than the TdF, as it disappears when holding the handlebar, but it is present, or at least, the will to wobble is there ...

So ... I thought I had found a trustable workhorse keeper, but I'm disappointed. I will keep it because for it's a perfect commutting bike and it looks so classy ! But I will not invest any money on any other Gitane.

My main road bike is a 2001 titanium - CF Colnago with Ambrosio Excellence rims I got second hand four years ago. My LBS told me it would be comfy ( I have back problems ) and I must say it dampens the road vibrations like I'm riding on velvet.
But it also tracks well, and feels absolutely safe , even in mountain roads. My fastest speed has been 76 km/h with it, and I never felt the faintest will to wobble, shimmy, quiver, shiver or anything like that.

What makes a bike shimmy like hell and another one just a little bit, considering the geometries are the same ? I thought the weight of the interclub could have modified the resonance frequency in a good way. I'll try to measure out precisely the trail of the forks and compare, but it doesn't seem easy.

Anyway, no more Gitanes for me. My project is now to find one sample of each main french company, namely Peugeot, Mercier, Motobecane, as well as some local makers such as Courtois, Lejeune, Méral ... Just one of each !
There's a pink Mercier staring at me right know, i'll see if it shimmies ....

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