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Posted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 1:07 pm |
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ozbike |
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Joined: 20 Nov 2010 |
Posts: 47 |
Location: Australia |
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Aww Shucks thanks.
I had better gearing than you. |
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_________________ Old is good |
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Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 7:35 am |
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scozim |
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Joined: 26 Sep 2008 |
Posts: 629 |
Location: Ellensburg, WA |
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So, what is your gearing? Looks to me like a 52/53-42 up front and maybe a 13-28 or so in the rear.
I've gone to a 38t inner ring on my Gitane Sprint and am absolutely loving that switch since I'm not getting any younger. |
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Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 6:30 pm |
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ozbike |
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Joined: 20 Nov 2010 |
Posts: 47 |
Location: Australia |
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Hi Scozim
Yes I have a Sugino Mighty 52/42 crankset with a 13/28 cluster on the rear, this gets me close to the modern stuff with 38 front and 25 rear ratios. I can climb just about any gradient with this gearing and not suffer too much, when I had the 25 on the back it was just too much on anything over 15% I was killing myself, I just dont have the power, and we all want to enjoy our riding don't we. Once you get past 45 you just can't do what you used too. |
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_________________ Old is good |
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| | | | | | | | | Old Age And Stealth | | | | | |
Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2012 6:45 pm |
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verktyg |
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Joined: 14 Jan 2007 |
Posts: 2814 |
Location: SF Bay Area |
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Once you get over 55, 38-28 looks great!
I had some knee and hip issues and hadn't been riding much between the late 90s and 2006.
My standard gearing for road bikes from 1975 until I started riding again in 2006 was 49-45 up front with a 13-26 freewheel.
It gave me great half step gearing with either 5% or 10% jumps depending of single or double shifts on the front.
I had a low gear of ~47" which got me up most hills OK.
After a short while of riding hills in 2006, I switched to 49-38 or 39 on the front and 13-28 on the rear.
For really tough climbing I switched bikes to one with a 30T granny triple and 13-30 rear.
BTW, I was 62 in 2006! |
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Last edited by verktyg on Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:19 am; edited 1 time in total _________________ Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
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1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica |
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Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:04 am |
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scozim |
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Joined: 26 Sep 2008 |
Posts: 629 |
Location: Ellensburg, WA |
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At 46 I find the cardiovascular system/lung capacity being the things in the body going first. The power in the legs is still there thanks to years of heavy weight lifting but the heart can't keep up as well. That has necessitated changing the gear rations.
My hill climb racing Gitane TdF is still a 52-42 and 13-26 6 spd combo. My Sprint is a 52-38 and 13-24 7 spd.
Other bikes are set up with 52-42 and 13-21 6 spd (non-windy and flat days ) 53-39 and 13-28 7 spd and a 53-39 13-26 8 spd. My only triple is a 50-42-28 and 13-21 in the back.
Knee issues and arthritis have me keeping the cranks at 170 mm for easier spinning which definitely helps on the hills. |
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| | | | | | | | | Re: Old Age And Stealth | | | | | |
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:33 pm |
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Wisey |
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Joined: 19 May 2009 |
Posts: 631 |
Location: Brisbane, Australia |
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verktyg wrote: |
BTW, I was 62 in 2006! |
So that means you'll be 56 this year? (I've been told you start counting backwards once you hit 100) |
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_________________ Kind Regards,
Wisey
Delta Dreamin' |
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| | | | | | | | | Re: Old Age And Stealth | | | | | |
Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2012 8:41 pm |
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verktyg |
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Joined: 14 Jan 2007 |
Posts: 2814 |
Location: SF Bay Area |
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Wisey wrote: |
verktyg wrote: |
BTW, I was 62 in 2006! |
So that means you'll be 56 this year? (I've been told you start counting backwards once you hit 100) |
Hey look Ocker, ah'll come doon there an' gi' yez a smack roond the heed ifin I hear any moor o that kind o talkin! |
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_________________ Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica |
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 12:56 pm |
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ozbike |
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Joined: 20 Nov 2010 |
Posts: 47 |
Location: Australia |
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Hi Chas
I would like to ask a couple of questions about my criterium. The axle in the bottom bracket has seen better days and the hard chrome bearing surface is starting to flake. I have forgotten what threads are used on this bike. I was thinking of ditching the old set up and replacing it with a cartridge set up, what do you think, and could you recomend a good quality model- brand for this bike.
Also I have a suntour supurbe pro headset and when I take out all the play it has a notch in the straight ahead position, when I got the bike back on the road I took it all apart and regreased all the bearings I didn't notice any pit marks in the race, so im not sure whats doing it. If I need to replace it what size thread ect should I look for.
Thanks....Rob... |
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_________________ Old is good |
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 10:24 pm |
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verktyg |
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Joined: 14 Jan 2007 |
Posts: 2814 |
Location: SF Bay Area |
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ozbike wrote: |
I would like to ask a couple of questions about my criterium. The axle in the bottom bracket has seen better days and the hard chrome bearing surface is starting to flake. I have forgotten what threads are used on this bike. I was thinking of ditching the old set up and replacing it with a cartridge set up, what do you think, and could you recomend a good quality model- brand for this bike. |
Hi Rob,
Your bike has British threads and is 68mm wide. The Stronglight cranks most likely used a 118mm wide spindle.
Here's a link that shows a number of cartridge BB options:
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bottombrackets.html
Phil Wood bottom brackets are the best and easiest to set up but most expensive.
The SKF BB cartridges are highly recommended but very expensive too.
I've used IRD BBs and they're OK.
The Shimano BB-UN55 are priced right and work very well. I've used them with non Shimano cranks for years without a problem. The BB-UN55 is probably the best choice in 118mm wide.
Forget about ISO vs. JIS. It it fits it works and after cranks are mounted for a while there is very little difference.
ozbike wrote: |
Also I have a suntour supurbe pro headset and when I take out all the play it has a notch in the straight ahead position, when I got the bike back on the road I took it all apart and regreased all the bearings I didn't notice any pit marks in the race, so im not sure whats doing it. If I need to replace it what size thread ect. should I look for. |
Several things that you can do to get around a "indexing" notch is to remove either the bottom cup or crown race and rotate it about 1mm. Also, use loose bearing not caged bearings. Get grade 25 chrome steel bearings.
If you know of a shop that has the tools and knows how to use them I'd recommend having the head tube and fork crown re-faced.
The headset is going to have British threads. There were 2 sizes on crown races, 26.4mm and 27mm.
If you need to replace the headset Tange may have been the OEM manufacturer of the Suntour headsets. They make still make an alloy headset. Here's what they look like:
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hs2.htm
Check the stack height of the frame.
Another choice is the Stronglight A9 alloy headset with needle bearings. These work very well and sell for around $50-60 on eBay.
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_________________ Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica |
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 10:50 pm |
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Wisey |
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Joined: 19 May 2009 |
Posts: 631 |
Location: Brisbane, Australia |
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Hey Rob
If you do want to chase & face the frame, let me know. I have the tools. You might need to fly Chas over from the States because he reckons you need a good mechanic and I'm as dodgey as a two bob watch.
If you are getting that thing painted by Joey Cosgrove, he'll do all that for you anyway.
Cheers,
Wisey
(I might be slow, but at least I'm rough) |
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_________________ Kind Regards,
Wisey
Delta Dreamin' |
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Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2012 1:31 pm |
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ozbike |
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Joined: 20 Nov 2010 |
Posts: 47 |
Location: Australia |
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Thanks chas
I found a Shimano bottom bracket you suggested on Ebay and bought it. I will go to my local bike shop and get some loose ball bearings and try them in the headset and see how we go.
Thanks for the offer Wisey. if I need any assistance I will get back to you. |
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_________________ Old is good |
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Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 10:18 pm |
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ozbike |
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Joined: 20 Nov 2010 |
Posts: 47 |
Location: Australia |
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Buggar
Jumped on the bike this afternoon to ride home after work, pulled on the gear leaver and "twang" lost all tension on the cable. On inspection the little braze on that retains the cable outer on the chainstay has broken away from the frame. My heart sank! Looks like the frame painting I have been putting off is inevateable.
I remember on my old bike there was a clamp on fitting that did this job. what are they called? I may be able to use one of those to get me through until the funds are there for the repaint.
Rob... |
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_________________ Old is good |
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Posted: Wed May 23, 2012 3:35 pm |
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Wisey |
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Joined: 19 May 2009 |
Posts: 631 |
Location: Brisbane, Australia |
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_________________ Kind Regards,
Wisey
Delta Dreamin' |
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Posted: Thu May 24, 2012 1:15 pm |
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ozbike |
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Joined: 20 Nov 2010 |
Posts: 47 |
Location: Australia |
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Thanks Wisey
Bought one on ebay from France now I just have to wait! |
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_________________ Old is good |
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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 6:41 pm |
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ozbike |
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Joined: 20 Nov 2010 |
Posts: 47 |
Location: Australia |
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Hi Chas
I have pulled the bike apart. I am going down the resto route. Repair the brazon and repaint the frame. I took the headset out (suntour superb pro) and it has 30.0 stamped into it. would this be right? I want to get a stronglight needle bearing headset, have to make sure I get the right one. You were spot on with the BB spindle size 118 exact, so the new one will slot in nicely.
I am running a six speed cluster on the back. What size chain do I need?
Thanks...Rob. |
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_________________ Old is good |
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