| | | | | | | | | Help identifying and valuing? | | | | | |
Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 2:20 pm |
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Snowden |
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Joined: 29 May 2009 |
Posts: 4 |
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Hi!
I'm going to look at (and maybe purchase) this bike later today.
It's a small picture, I know, sorry.
The only real information I have is that the owner says that it's from the 70's and in excellent condition. With a little detective work I'm guessing that its a 76 or 77... something. I was wondering if anyone here could help me identify the model and help me tell what the bike might be worth... the owner is asking $160 for it, and I'd rather not get ripped off because I don't know enough. Thanks!
Zack
Seattle, WA |
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| | | | | | | | | Checking Bike Forsale | | | | | |
Posted: Fri May 29, 2009 3:39 pm |
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verktyg |
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Joined: 14 Jan 2007 |
Posts: 2814 |
Location: SF Bay Area |
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Greetings,
First off, check to make sure that the forks are straight. It could be an optical illusion but they look like they are bent slightly backwards.
Look for any cracks in the paint on the fork blades, that the fork crown is aligned with the headset and there are no bumps or ripples under the top tube and down tube lugs at the head tube.
Judging from the stem shifters and oversize reflectors it appears to be an entry level bike.
The web that holds the chainrings onto the crank may be swaged on rather than a forged single piece unit that's part of the crank arm.
Does it have alloy or chrome plated steel rims. I'd stay away from steel rims in Seattle because they don't stop when wet.
Price depends on condition. Any rust or corrosion would lower the value, especially in Seattle where it could have been exposed to a lot of moisture.
$160 seems like top dollar if it is as I suggested an entry level model. If it's in really great shape and doesn't need any work then it may be worth that much.
Good luck,
Chas. |
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Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 5:32 am |
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sandranian |
Site Admin |
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Joined: 27 Feb 2006 |
Posts: 2701 |
Location: Southern California |
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Just to add on Chas. statements...I guess it all depends on what you want it for. A new crappy bike to use as a commuter would cost you $160 (at least). If you are looking to get into racing or use it for fitness, then you may want to consider another model. As a commuter bike, it is perfect. |
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| | | | | | | | | thanks and a bit more | | | | | |
Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 11:11 am |
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Snowden |
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Joined: 29 May 2009 |
Posts: 4 |
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thanks for the advice!
So, that was the first Gitane I've ever ridden, and I think I completely fell in love, at least a little bit.
I'm pretty sure you guys are right on with the ID, but it looked to be in totally solid condition, so now I suppose I need to make the decision.
I think... I think I'm going to pass on this one, but keep looking. The lure of that bike, but better(!), is just a bit too strong, and I don't really have the excessive funds to buy a bike, even a cheapey one like that, if it's not dead on perfect - and I would like something a bit more performance oriented.
That said, I'm sure I'll be kicking myself 3 months later on, when I can't find a TdF for the life of me.
Lastly. These campy pieces:
Chorus cranks
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/1196270508.html
Victory pedals
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/1196268677.html
just showed up on craigslist. If I were to hedge my bets and start looking at componants to upgrade or replace on some old gitane I pick up sometime in the future, would these be A) useable, and B) worth it?
I know this is a very general question, and I'm sorry to throw myself on you as much as I am, but although I've been riding for quite awhile, I'm just starting to get interested in old bikes and doing my own building and mechanic work, and there is so much to learn!
Thank you so much,
Zack |
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Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 3:09 pm |
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sandranian |
Site Admin |
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Joined: 27 Feb 2006 |
Posts: 2701 |
Location: Southern California |
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Crankset may be a bit overpriced (but not by much), and at 172.5, you may want to make sure you want that length crankarm (170 or 172.5 are both pretty good, depending on your leg lenth). Allin all, probably a good buy for an upgrade. But I would get the bike first....
Don't buy the pedals. If you are even semi-serious about getting into riding, get some Look pedals and proper shoes. |
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Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 8:36 am |
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Gtane |
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Joined: 14 Sep 2007 |
Posts: 681 |
Location: UK |
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Zack,
Thanks for the post and all the best with your decisions. Nice looking bike by the way.
Older machines are certainly getting harder to come by as new people get in to cycling who wish to learn more about the history, technology, etc, but not only that, many wish to get involved with steel and there's a huge consumption for steel machines at this moment in time. It's likely that this will continue as the world moves forward with carbon.
Tim |
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_________________ Everything has a cycle |
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Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 12:09 pm |
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greyhundguy |
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Joined: 09 Apr 2008 |
Posts: 678 |
Location: South-Central VIRGINIA |
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Zack,
Think about your ultimate goal. If you are considering a VINTAGE Gitane, Campy Chorus post dates them and you need to consider rear spacing etc. and numerous other things.
Do you want a Period Bike or to just build something? I tossed out too much money at first not thinking about MY Goal and realizing I wanted a PROPER (...think correct components) 70's Gitane.
My suggestion...do LOTS of research and take your time, unless you happen up on the perfect complete or nearly complete Bike.
Jay |
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_________________ Dance like nobody is watching. |
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