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KMF

I have what I believe to be an early 70's Gitane super course. I have owned this since the early 80's and it is time to let it go. I purchased it from a club racer, at the time it had sewups on it, but I changed them out for regular tires. I would appreciate any help identifing this bike, so I can advertise it correctly. Also, what kind of money can I expect to get out of it?

KMF

LeicaLad

Nice bike, but I will defer to Chas and the other experts.

My first guess is 74 or 75. Nice looking bike.

Again, I hesitate, so hope the others will chime in.

Owen

sandranian · Site Admin

Welcome to the forum. A couple of questions: What is the date stamp on the rear derailleur (should be two numbers (i.e. '72') stamped in the deralleur near the area where the shift cable enters)? Do you know if the derailleur came with the bike or not? Also, when was the bike refinished, and is that the color (or close to the color) it was when you bought it?

It appears that the stem is raised dangerously high on that....

KMF

The stamping on the derailer says PATENT 71 although the "7" has been stamped a couple of times and is kind of messy.

The parts on the bike are as I purchased it, I didn't ask at the time what had been replaced. I see that it has a Sun Tour freewheel, and a Japaneese stem that has SR stamped on it.

I purchased the bike in the early '80's from a club racer. He was using sew up tires, and I was using the bike as a commuter and so I changed the rims out for clincher tires. The paint was bad so I repainted it, this color is my second paint job, I believe it was some kind of blue when I purchased it but I can't honestly remember.

KMF

sandranian · Site Admin

Derailleur is either original or at least dates approximately to the date of manufacture of the bike, which is early 1970s.

The frameset should be full Reynolds 531. It is a good bike, but the repaint will knock off some of the value. I hate to speculate, but I would say around $300, give or take....

Don't take this as gospel, because I could be way off.

LeicaLad

Are the rear drop-outs Campy or Simplex?

Owen

KMF

Both the front and rear dropouts are campy.

KMF

LeicaLad

Although there are guys here who know much more than me, the Campy dropouts pretty much say Super Corsa.

The crank is a bit unusual, as the SC usually had Campy. It could have been swapped. Various components were also shop options, meaning the original buyer saved a few pennies (or, in some cases, the shop made more than a few extra pennies) by swapping out components.

Mine, for example, has a Campy crank set, but the inner ring was swapped out for a non-Campy ring. The original buyer never noticed. (I asked. Not a problem, tho.)

A complete strip and repaint might be worth it, but whether to you or the next owner is open for discussion. I'm fixing mine up to ride!

Owen

sandranian · Site Admin

There have been multiple discussions about what makes a bike a Super Corsa vs. a "Tour de France". There were TdF badged models made that included Campagnolo dropouts, mainly because of the fact that the name sold better in the USA as opposed to the "Super Corsa".

The general consensus is as follows:

The bike is a "Super Corsa" if it is Reynolds 531 throughout, includes Campagnolo dropouts, AND has a steerer tube with a "stack height" tall enough to thread a full Campagnolo Nuovo Record headset (including the spacer.

There were a number of Gitanes made which were badged as "Tour de France" bicycles that included Campagnolo dropouts. But they used Stronglight headsets, with shorter steerer tubes which were trimmed to accept the shorter stack height of the stronglight headset.

Yours appears to be a Super Corsa, judging by the dropouts and Campagnolo headset.

****Just noticed another issue: The front brake is mounted incorrectly. The spacer/stabilizer which is used as a washer in the back of the fork crown should go on the other side, which should give the brake pads/calipers more clearance with the fork and provide for more stable braking. I would seriously check that stem as well, as it looks like it isn't inserted far enough...and those have a reputation for snapping if they are not correctly mounted!****

KMF

Thanks for the information and the tips. I was wondering about the brake mounting when I put it back together. I will fix that. I just raised the steering stem enough to make it a comfortable ride, I will lower it a bit. How much is the max to stick out?
I noticed Reynolds 531 stamped on the down tube when I had it apart once for painting, but the fork is all chromed and I didn't notice any stamps on it. I really wasn't looking hard for stamps though.

KMF

sandranian · Site Admin

The fork is Reynolds 531, with (most likely) a Bocama crown ("BCM"). There should be a line on the stem which tells you the minimum insertion level for that stem. If not...then we will need to consult Chas. and some of the other "wizards". I have a hard time recommending minimum insertion levels as an attorney without including a legal waiver.

Regarding the brake(s), check the rear one for the same issue. Not sure if it is improperly mounted, but check just to be sure.

LeicaLad

The fork is 531. Both models had 531 forks, and yours is clearly the right fork. It may well be a 71, too. (Welcome to the club!)

Tell us more about the stem. We might hope that it is not original. DO a search. Chas has provided great details about the good and bad of original stems. After you've seen a few of his pictures, you'll have a much better idea of what's at stake.

Cheers,

Owen

trials guy

What size is the frame? It looks to be 56cm. or so? Where is the bike located? Thanks, John

KMF

The bike measures 54 CM from the center of the crank to the top of the seat tube where the seat post enters the tube. It is located in Hood River, Or.

KMF

trials guy

Hi - I sent you a PM about the bike. I'll be up in Portland at the end of July for a wedding if it is still available. Thanks, John