| | | | | | | | | Gitane Tandem....info?? | | | | | |
Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 4:58 am |
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NX EXA |
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Joined: 25 Feb 2012 |
Posts: 7 |
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Hi all, I just sourced a Gitane tandem bicycle and I'm trying to determine the year and estimated value of current state and potential value cleaned up or restored. I will get pictures up as soon as possible. I've looked through the catalogues and have estimated it to be early 70's, possibly late 60's, though it's hard to determine from black and white pictures and some of them in french. What I can tell you (until pics are up) is that it is green in colour with red Gitane labels. Centre-pull brakes with drum on rear. Hand grips are white and the back pair slope down. Looks to be all original.
Also, any tips on restoration with trying to keep as much of it original? There is rust buildup and I would like to keep the original paint.
Jason |
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Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 5:14 am |
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NX EXA |
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Joined: 25 Feb 2012 |
Posts: 7 |
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Just thought about it, here are some pics from the site I bought it from.
This picture is to show the kind of rust on the frame around the label. |
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| | | | | | | | | Re: Gitane Tandem....info?? | | | | | |
Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 5:30 am |
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auchencrow |
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Joined: 09 Oct 2011 |
Posts: 53 |
Location: Detroit |
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NX EXA wrote: |
....
Also, any tips on restoration with trying to keep as much of it original? There is rust buildup and I would like to keep the original paint.
Jason |
Hi Jason -
Insofar as the rust is concerned, I would give it the oxalic acid treatment after stripping it to the bare frame.
OA is available from paint specialty stores in powder form - often callled "wood bleach" and is used diluted with water (about 1 tbs /gal).
Read the cautions on the container, and then submerge the entire frame. Generally people use a kiddie pool for this purpose. Dilute OA eats rust but does not affect paint, chrome or decals. It will also attack aluminum or zinc (galvanizing) so be aware of that.
Afterward treat the inside of the frame with frame saver or Boeshield T19. The outside of the frame can be preserved with a periodic coat of wax though some people prefer to apply a light oil. (Be advised though that these products can sometimes affect old chalky paint.)
You are wise to avoid repainting. (Many newbies make that mistake and destroy the character and collector interest.)
You have a very intriguing bike there. I have no idea what model or year it is though. |
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Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 7:03 am |
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smilingroadrunner |
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Joined: 10 Aug 2007 |
Posts: 278 |
Location: Salina, Ks. |
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Jason, G'day, Welcome to the forum. A beautiful example of the restoration of your tandem model can be resourced here:
Go to forum memberlist, Page #11, member #525 Mikkla joined the forum group in August 2010. Look at his posts related to "Gitane '69 Tandem"
I'm "green with envy" , first that it must be amazing to live in a country like the Netherlands where cycling is much more of an everyday mode of transportation for its citizens. And possibly, I think you'll agree this has to be a fun way to enjoy time with one's spouse or "significant other" .
I've considered trying to find a tandem, but my spouse says " I ride too fast"
P.S. Mikkla's posts have lots of technical items if you work through them before starting your project it may save some "headaches"----Take lots of reference photos before i.e. your brake cable set up appears different than his example. I assume the dual cables should go to rear hub-caliper set, with the other separate cable to front caliper---OR---do the dual cables go to the Front & Rear Calipers and the separate cable to the auxillary rear Drum. I don't really know the correct answer---I just assume to avoid possibly locking -sliding front wheel (albeit usually greater stoping power w front brake usage) the rear brakes would be used in combination together for most situations. Then its just a matter of your dominant hand preferance as to L or R front brake handle. (I'm left handed and I've probably always "plumbed" my bikes backwards VS most setups but I've always used my Left brake to engage my rear brake--and R for my front (I've only been over my front bars 2 times in all my years of cycling from locking up the front wheel and those were mountain biking experiences --not on the road)
I like Steel !!!
________________
C.A.
Salina, Ks.
'70 TdeF
'71 Interclub
2- "72 Interclub
'72 TdeF
'73 TdeF
'72-'73 S.C. "in the wings"
'86 Performance
'87 Victoire
& hopefully '85 Professionnel in the near future |
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Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 12:25 pm |
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NX EXA |
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Joined: 25 Feb 2012 |
Posts: 7 |
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Auchencrow, thanks for the restoration info, it will come in quite handy. Something I will look forward to next month (hopefully, been very busy with work and school, not much time for anything). So the frame I can put in this bath without affecting the paint and decals. Assuming the cranks and splash guards can go in too. The pedals have foot guards (or whatever they are), as long as I take off the straps, those should do fine, right? Not knowing what metals are on the bike, I'm just trying to find out what I CAN'T put in there.
Smilingroadrunner, I thank you for that source, I will definitely have a look at that. The brake system on this bike is that the single goes to the rear drum and the dual go to front and rear caliper.
Btw, I'm not sure if you are implying that I live in the Netherlands, I don't. I'm actually in Florida. |
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| | | | | | | | | Gitane Sport Tandem | | | | | |
Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 2:32 pm |
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verktyg |
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Joined: 14 Jan 2007 |
Posts: 2814 |
Location: SF Bay Area |
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Your bike looks like a 1968-1973 Gitane Sport model tandem.
There are small silver stickers just below the shift levers that have the model name.
Here's a 1969 US flyer showing your bike,
http://www.gitaneusa.com/images/catalog/1969/pricesheet/1969-Price-Sheet-001.jpg
BTW, the most important parts of the drive train, the cranks and derailleurs are on the right side of the bike!
I'll spare you my lecture but please post some pictures of the right side, preferably closer up. |
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_________________ Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica |
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Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 6:31 pm |
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NX EXA |
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Joined: 25 Feb 2012 |
Posts: 7 |
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I would say "my bad" on the pics but I didn't take the pictures. These are pictures of what the seller took. I will get some up soon.
The decal you speak of is 'Touring'. I've already come to conclude the bike is late '60's, early '70's. Is there a way to pin-point the year?
What would you price it at? I'm just wanting to make sure I picked it up for a good price even though it's in rough condition. |
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Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 7:18 pm |
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verktyg |
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Joined: 14 Jan 2007 |
Posts: 2814 |
Location: SF Bay Area |
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NX EXA wrote: |
What would you price it at? I'm just wanting to make sure I picked it up for a good price even though it's in rough condition. |
In current condition, probably under $300 USD.
Hope you got a good deal! |
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_________________ Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica |
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Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 7:33 pm |
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NX EXA |
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Joined: 25 Feb 2012 |
Posts: 7 |
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As long as it wasn't under $100. Paid $65. |
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Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 8:23 pm |
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NX EXA |
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Joined: 25 Feb 2012 |
Posts: 7 |
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Close-ups of the drive-train and brakes.
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Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 8:29 pm |
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smilingroadrunner |
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Joined: 10 Aug 2007 |
Posts: 278 |
Location: Salina, Ks. |
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Hi, Jason, G'evening. What's the deal with all these bargain prices for early '70's tandems. Mikkla picks up one for $35 and you find one for $65. Except for the difficulty to properly package & horrendous fee to ship one cross country.
I'm certain if one ever comes up locally I'm going to invest in the restoration and then make my spouse ride with me, (albeit a slow--"ride in the park" velocity).
My earlier post wasn't very clear---I was referring to Mikkla and his pictures of his tandem and the classic cobbles of the streets in his neighborhood in the netherlands.
Peace & Good Health !!!
I Like Steel !!!!
______________
C.A.
Salina, Ks. |
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Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 4:01 am |
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NX EXA |
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Joined: 25 Feb 2012 |
Posts: 7 |
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I don't know, stroke of luck, maybe?
I did have a look at Mikkla's, it looks real good. The street adds to the effect as well.
I can't wait to get started on the restoration but it is going to be a while before I start as there is a giant list of things that I need to get done first. I will post progress pics as it occurs. |
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Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 6:54 am |
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mikkla |
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Joined: 23 Aug 2010 |
Posts: 87 |
Location: The Netherlands |
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Hi there,
I was out for ermm a few months lol.
Nice to read you got yours for a real bargain as well.
Although yours need a lot more TLC than mine, still looks good.
Interesting to read about your brake set up.
One tip, listen to Chas and don't cut the spokes before unlocking the freewheel (oke that were two tips) !!
Anyway, if you have any questions feel free to ask.
Good luck and fun with your restoration |
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_________________ Greetings from the Netherlands!! |
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