| | | | | | | | | My weekend - saw a beautiful TdF | | | | | |
Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 11:07 am |
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scozim |
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Joined: 26 Sep 2008 |
Posts: 629 |
Location: Ellensburg, WA |
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| | | | | | | | | I like that color | | | | | |
Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 5:57 pm |
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smilingroadrunner |
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Joined: 10 Aug 2007 |
Posts: 278 |
Location: Salina, Ks. |
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Nice lighter metallic green shade---possibly a re-spray with new sticker set ??? (notice the headset) I like this shade of metallic green---certainly not the usual '70's metallic green.
Maybe I need to visit with LBS owner and see if we can try to organize a vintage ride out here.
I did take 12 Scouts on a great weekend campout in Council Grove KS this past weekend. They all completed a 25 mile Mountain Bike Trail Ride and a couple 2 mile Trail Rides the next day working on requirements for Mountain bike Merit Badge. This is part of approximate 115 mile Rail to Trail thru the Flint Hills of central Kansas from Council Grove to Paola Ks. I much prefer my road bikes---BUT --- I had a blast. Lots of Great scenery and a good portion of this old Missouri Pacific railway right of way is almost like a tree covered lane for the first 6-7 miles climbing up east of Council Grove into the Flint Hills. (Which was a good thing---95--102 degrees by late morning early afternoon). I only wish this prized resource was closer to my home.
I like Steel !!!
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C.A.
Salina, KS. |
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Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 6:35 pm |
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scozim |
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Joined: 26 Sep 2008 |
Posts: 629 |
Location: Ellensburg, WA |
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Come to think of it I think I remember the owner saying it was repainted. He was from Missoula, MT. |
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| | | | | | | | | Re: I like that color | | | | | |
Posted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 7:50 pm |
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verktyg |
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Joined: 14 Jan 2007 |
Posts: 2814 |
Location: SF Bay Area |
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smilingroadrunner wrote: |
Nice lighter metallic green shade---possibly a re-spray with new sticker set ??? (notice the headset) I like this shade of metallic green---certainly not the usual '70's metallic green |
You guys have good eyes!
From the late 60s through the late 70s Gitane and many other European bike manufacturers use "flamboyant" or in the US, "candy apple" paint. It was not metallic but a dyed transparent lacquer applied over a white, silver or gold base coat.
In the late 70s Gitane started using metallic paint - dyed transparent or translucent lacquer with particles of metallic powder.
Up until 1974 Gitane used a very dark Green. In 1974 they started using the brighter kelly green in the pictured TdF.
Helyett badged Gitane Interclub
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Last edited by verktyg on Sun Sep 22, 2013 12:15 am; edited 1 time in total _________________ Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica |
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Posted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 10:20 pm |
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mountaindave |
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Joined: 22 Jun 2010 |
Posts: 75 |
Location: Flathead Valley, MT |
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I also talked to this guy because it was the only Gitane on the ride (AFAIK). He had it stripped and powder coated. It looked pretty nice overall, but the paint around the lugs was a bit thick - it didn't have the nice definition of the original paint jobs. Not that I'm complaining. It looked really darn nice with the repro stickers on it.
If all goes well, there will definitely be more Gitanes on the Cino next year!
MD |
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Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 11:27 am |
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scozim |
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Joined: 26 Sep 2008 |
Posts: 629 |
Location: Ellensburg, WA |
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mountaindave wrote: |
I also talked to this guy because it was the only Gitane on the ride (AFAIK). He had it stripped and powder coated. It looked pretty nice overall, but the paint around the lugs was a bit thick - it didn't have the nice definition of the original paint jobs. Not that I'm complaining. It looked really darn nice with the repro stickers on it.
If all goes well, there will definitely be more Gitanes on the Cino next year!
MD |
Do tell - what are you planning on riding? |
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Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 7:43 pm |
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mountaindave |
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Joined: 22 Jun 2010 |
Posts: 75 |
Location: Flathead Valley, MT |
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Scroll down to the very bottom of this thread. Either we will be riding that tandem (currently has a rebuilt rear wheel with both hubs about to be re-packed - BBs next, then new cabling, brake pads, etc...) or the TdF pictured above it along with my wife's TdF (not pictured). They all need some TLC, but seem to be workable.
BTW, if anybody just happens to have some old Normandy Luxe Competition cones hanging around or has a decent replacement suggestion, it would make life lots easier... |
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Posted: Mon Sep 23, 2013 11:45 pm |
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verktyg |
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Joined: 14 Jan 2007 |
Posts: 2814 |
Location: SF Bay Area |
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mountaindave wrote: |
BTW, if anybody just happens to have some old Normandy Luxe Competition cones hanging around or has a decent replacement suggestion, it would make life lots easier... |
Unfortunately cones for Normandy Luxe Competition hubs were hard to get even back in the day.
In the early 1970s Peugeot used those hubs on PX-10s. We used to get the replacement cones from the Peugeot dealer down the street from our shop.
The source dried up when Peugeot switched from Normandy Luxe Competition hubs to Maillard 700 hubs.
The interesting feature about those Normandy cones was they had strait tapered bearing races vs. the standard radiused races used on most other hubs of the day.
This chart shows some Shimano rear hub cones with dimensions. I have some Normandy Luxe Competition hubs but I don't have time to tear one apart to measure the rear cones. If you find some cones that are close in size they should work.
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_________________ Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica |
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Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 1:28 am |
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Frenchbuilt |
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Joined: 18 Apr 2007 |
Posts: 443 |
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Talking about cones, just turn them down in a drill press and its very easy to get the pits "out" and the cone like new. Take a drill bit shank of roughly the same radius of the worn area on the cone and then wrap 120 grit emmery paper around it and use as a tool to take down the metal on the spinning cone.
The cone is bolted onto a protected axle and tightened in the drill chuck.
Get it spinning at good speed and just keep on sanding out the pits with the
close fitting emmery wrapped shank. Several rewraps of paper might be needed but the pits eventually "go"
You will probably find the result better than new since new was usually tighter then hell which you discovered in horror the first time you took off the wheels and tried to turn the axle. |
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Posted: Tue Sep 24, 2013 10:46 am |
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mountaindave |
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Joined: 22 Jun 2010 |
Posts: 75 |
Location: Flathead Valley, MT |
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Thanks verktyg, I recall you posting that info I another thread for a guy with the same problem. My LBS said the same and added that the bearings should contact the cone in about the middle of the pitch.
I have also thought of "turning" the old cone. It's already done, I couldn't make it any worse. The only consideration would be ensuring I keep it perfectly in round. I suppose I could rig up a jig to hold the bit in the same spot so I don't accidentally sand it in an oval. The other difficulty is matching the curve of the pitch. As mentioned, it's nearly flat. I'll experiment some.
Thanks for the replies. MD |
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