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Wobbly freewheel - not a major concern? 
PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 6:40 pm Reply with quote
mountaindave
Joined: 22 Jun 2010
Posts: 75
Location: Flathead Valley, MT
As I understand it, freewheels don't really need to be rebuilt because they don't depend on bearings to function properly. In other words, they work when the pawls engage and they no longer spin - they drive the hub/wheel.

Therefore, if my freewheels have a bit of wobble in them, it isn't necessarily something I should stress about. They don't need to be repacked regularly like hubs, bottom brackets and (to a lesser extent) headsets.

Opinions?

MD
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Re: Wobbly freewheel - not a major concern? 
PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 1:52 am Reply with quote
verktyg
Joined: 14 Jan 2007
Posts: 2814
Location: SF Bay Area
mountaindave wrote:
As I understand it, freewheels don't really need to be rebuilt because they don't depend on bearings to function properly. In other words, they work when the pawls engage and they no longer spin - they drive the hub/wheel.

Well, yes and no... Confused

When you pedal, the pawls engage and it becomes a "solid" drive element. When you stop pedaling the wheel keeps turning but the freewheel "freewheels". It runs on the small ball bearing in the outside and inside bearing races.

Clear as mud eh? Laughing

mountaindave wrote:
Therefore, if my freewheels have a bit of wobble in them, it isn't necessarily something I should stress about. They don't need to be repacked regularly like hubs, bottom brackets and (to a lesser extent) headsets.


Most freewheels have a slight bit of wobble. Sometimes it's due to too much slop in the assembly.

Very thin shims are used behind the adjusting rings in the outer surface of the freewheel. Too many and the the freewheel wobbles too much and can make clicking sounds. Too few and the freewheel doesn't turn smoothly if at all.


LUBRICATION (From Saint Sheldon Brown):

"Lubricating Freewheels

Freewheels should be oiled from time to time with a medium-weight oil. This is easy to do, and generally requires no disassembly.

The bike should be held with the rear wheel off the ground, and leaning to the left at about a 45 degree angle. An assistant may be helpful for this. Turn the pedals around a couple of times to get the wheel spinning fast, then let it coast (helps to be in high gear for this.)

Look inside the smallest sprocket. The sprocket will be stationary, since the wheel is coasting, but you'll see an inner part of the freewheel that is spinning with the wheel. Drip oil onto the crack between the turning part and the stationary part. Gravity and capillary action will help work oil into the freewheel.

Repeat this a few times, until you hear a change in the sound of the clicking pawls (they'll generally get quieter when the oil reaches them.)

This should be done every year or so, or any time that coasting sounds loud and gritty."

I've used WD40 to flush out the old grease and loosen sticking pawls. After the WD40 dries up I use Phil Oil which is a 90 weight machinery oil.

Otherwise I use a light oil to lubricate freewheels.

One hint, it helps to remove the freewheel and clean the front and back surfaces so that you don't flush and dirt or crud into the bearings.


Last edited by verktyg on Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:17 pm; edited 1 time in total

_________________
Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 10:04 am Reply with quote
mountaindave
Joined: 22 Jun 2010
Posts: 75
Location: Flathead Valley, MT
While not experienced in this matter, it seems to be a minor wobble. My '73 TdF also has a minor wobble in the freewheel - it is a Maillard IIRC. My tandem has an Atom freewheel. Thanks for the tip on oiling. I have the tools to remove the freewheels for surface cleaning. I don't have the tools to open them up however, and I'm pretty sure I don't want to go down that road. They sound normal so a good cleaning/oiling is in order.

Thanks!
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Disassembling Freewheels 
PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 2:34 pm Reply with quote
verktyg
Joined: 14 Jan 2007
Posts: 2814
Location: SF Bay Area
Disassembling a freewheel should be looked at as a post mortem event (autopsy)! Twisted Evil

Once you get the outside lock ring loose, be prepared for a shower of tiny ball bearings falling all over the place!

I rebuilt one or two freewheels back in the early 70s (before I knew any better). Rolling Eyes

Consider it an exercise in futility! Wink

Freewheels are consumable components that wear out - both the cogs and the innards.

Keeping the chain and cogs clean and lubricated will prolong their life along with an occasion shot of oil into the innards (after cleaning off the built up crud on the outside so that the oil doesn't carry it into the bearings etc.).

I've been using White Lightning Clean Ride chain lube for the past few years. It goes on wet but quickly evaporates leaving a heavy duty wax based lubricant on the chain.

The stuff has 2 nice features: it's isn't greasy or messy and as dirt builds up on the chain it's self cleaning - the wax catches the crud and falls off in use.



There are similar products on the market - also there are other (dirty, messy) products for ridding in wetter conditions.

Among the hard core bikie set, chain lube recommendations are much akin to making "how to" suggestions about activities in the sanctity of one's boudoir! Laughing

_________________
Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 7:13 pm Reply with quote
mountaindave
Joined: 22 Jun 2010
Posts: 75
Location: Flathead Valley, MT
Oh, I've looked down the "what do you use on your chain" road - it is dark and full of blind curves. I use what works for me and let sleeping dogs lie. I've considered the wax route, but have seen so many people complain about squeeky chains after a few miles. It would sure be nice on dusty roads - that's what gets me the quickest.

Re: freewheel rebuilds, that's pretty much what I intuited from discussions. Not worth my time. The trouble is, determining what thread is on the hub and what I could possibly get to replace it if it ever went out (or I wanted to get some shorter gears for hills)? I would probably have to take it to a LBS because I don't have a big enough collection of parts to check what's what.

MD
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Freewheel Threads 
PostPosted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 12:16 am Reply with quote
verktyg
Joined: 14 Jan 2007
Posts: 2814
Location: SF Bay Area
What make and model rear hub do you have? Can you remove the freewheel, clean off the crud and take some pictures of the threaded area of the hub?

I'll do my best with info and suggestions for a freewheel.

BTW, a few months back I put together my 1984 Team Pro and threw in some temporary clinchers until I build the proper sewups for the bike.

I used what seemed to be a good vintage 6 speed Suntour freewheel. It was clean with very low mileage.

I noticed that it had quite a bit of wobble. While test riding the bike, I kept hearing/feeling some loud clicking coming from the rear. After checking all of the usual suspects I found that the freewheel itself was so loose that it was catching on the inside when I stomped on the pedals.

I replaced it with another vintage FW and all is well now.


Last edited by verktyg on Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:18 pm; edited 1 time in total

_________________
Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 8:26 pm Reply with quote
mountaindave
Joined: 22 Jun 2010
Posts: 75
Location: Flathead Valley, MT
I'll get some more info this weekend... Don't know what hub the tandem is, but it lacks a punch mark on the back so must be French? The '73 TdF is a high-flange Campy hub. From the bike boom era when they coundn't get enough French hubs?
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2013 10:20 pm Reply with quote
verktyg
Joined: 14 Jan 2007
Posts: 2814
Location: SF Bay Area
mountaindave wrote:
Don't know what hub the tandem is, but it lacks a punch mark on the back so must be French? The '73 TdF is a high-flange Campy hub. From the bike boom era when they coundn't get enough French hubs?


Tandem??? Did I miss something? Confused

Gitane started using Campagnolo Nuovo Tipo hubs (with round holes) about 1972.



Prior to that Gitane used Normandy Luxe Competition hubs on TdFs. Peugeot probably had more pull with Maillard/Normandy that Gitane back then. They were used on Peugeot PX-10 bikes.



There were some marks designating threads on Campy rear hubs back then.

_________________
Chas.
SF Bay Area, CA USA
==============
1984 Criterium
1969 TdF
1971 TdF
1974 TdF
1984 TdF x 2 Bikes
1970 SC
1971 SC
1972 SC
1984 SC
1984 Team Pro
1985 Professional
1990s Team Replica
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 4:02 pm Reply with quote
JJScaliger
Joined: 20 Feb 2013
Posts: 2
Location: United States
This is great advice. My Interclub has a Suntour perfect whose pawls that were making scary noises and sticking sporadically, mostly on long descents. I flushed it out with WD40 as described above and when I took my Gitane for a 30 mile ride today the symptoms were gone. I'll have to add some thicker lube to the freewheel sometime soon. Thanks verktyg!
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:49 pm Reply with quote
mountaindave
Joined: 22 Jun 2010
Posts: 75
Location: Flathead Valley, MT
Here are hubs and freewheels from the three Gitanes I have:

1970-ish Tandem:




No idea what the hubs are - no markings whatsoever.




Atom freewheel - note the lack of a punch, therefore French thread.

1970-ish TdF


Normandy Luxe Competition (gold label) hub


Atom freewheel.

1973 TdF:


Campagnolo (Tipo? no marking) high flange hubs


Normandy freewheel.

The interesting thing I finally discovered upon photographing all of these wheels is that they ALL have a wobble - more or less the same amount. I haven't taken the TdFs' freewheels off, but I'd bet dollars to doughnuts that they are all French thread, not British, like the tandem's freewheel... OK, I take that back. I don't know what the Campy hub would be threaded even though it has a Normandy freewheel on it.

MD
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Wobbly freewheel - not a major concern? 
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